I’m using a 5kg load cell on a bowden cable type extruder. Basically, anybody that is using the Airtripper style extruder set-up would be able to easily get this new kit in place. It would just be an extruder upgrade, but takes up a little more room.

My focus is with the bowden extruder set up because this is where the sensor data will be of more use for g-code set-up. I think most bowden users will be glad of a little feedback if it will help get the best out of their bowden extruder system.

Mark

With 3mm filament I was reading about 10kg force

As expected, I ran into issues extruding after trying to convert to 1.75mm using PTFE tubing. Still working on it, but having the dimensions properly machined would (of course) be the best solution. We’ll see if I can make do on my limited budget.

It was that, thanks you so much for your help. I confuse the both LCD’s.

Regards.

Martin.

Appreciate the response let me try this things and get back to you, thanks

Personally I would not use thermistors that has not been properly identified by the supplier as with the case on my J-Head purchase. I think the recommendations that hotends.com makes is based on the kit that they supply and test.
To make sure you get the temperature reading as expected it is best source your own thermistors that match those in the firmware configuration list. The following link is a type I use and I believe hotends.com has just started recommending the same:
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/GT-THERMISTOR-100K-3-61-0452

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 should be enough to get your hot end heating up as long as you are getting an ambient reading from the thermistor.

I’m not familiar with the board you are using but defining TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 should enable extruder heater 0. One common error to check for is the power input cable; making sure it’s connected to the correct power input socket.

There is not really a lot to do to get the heaters going on the extruder and the heated bed, It’s just a case of good wiring connections and setting thermistors in firmware and of course choosing the correct motherboard configuration.

It will be interesting to see how you do with the MK-IVB.

Good luck with your first printer,

Mark

It looks like you might have the click encoders wires mixed up. Your Marlin firmware thinks you are holding down the click button and that’s why the menu on the LCD Screen changes back and forth. You may have a click encoder rotary wire connected where the click button wire should go. The pictures above show the configuration for the ULTIPANEL definition.

There are two click encoder pin configurations, one for ULTIPANEL and one for REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER. If you purchased the LCD and click encoder as a kit then it might be wired for REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER configuration. This means you will have to #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER instead of #define ULTIPANEL in the Marlin configuration.h file.

The wiring looks very similar for both ULTIPANEL and REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER and setting the wrong definition in firmware could cause the symptoms you described on the LCD Screen.

You could just keep the firmware as it is and just correct the wires on the click encoder.

Mark

I bought an MK-IVB a while ago and am now installing it in my first printer. It is machined for a 3mm filament, but I also tried converting it to use 1.75mm with some PTFE tubing… I’ll let you know how reliable I find that to be.

One question regarding the hot end: I thought I fully installed the resistor into the board (RAMBo) properly, but when I try heating it up the hot end just remains at room temperature. With the MK-IV, are we supposed to declare thermal settings differently in Marlin, or keep it like:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
as the hotends website suggests?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Kevin

The guide is very useful. I’m trying to use a Ramps 1.4 with Ultipanel and a dual extruder but it doesn’t work neither with a single extruder. It seems that the click/encoder it’s wrong configurated because the LCD it’s continuously changing between the main interface and the main menu.

I check the pins with the previous firmware (the marlin not v1) and they are the same. What do you think? I don’t know what I can do.

Thanks for all.

Martin.

If your Z axis does indeed home away from the bed you must make sure the Z_MAX_POS travel measurement between the nozzle and the bed is correct to avoid crashing.

If the above did not help, send me your Marlin configuration.h file to airtripper2010@gmail.com to check if it is consistent with your hardware set up.

Mark